In the kitchen, star anise and pepper rarely stand next to each other. In a fragrance formula they are often used for the same purpose: to give the scent depth and keep it from going flat.
Star anise gives a sweet, cool, herbal note, and the main character comes from anethole in star anise oil. Pepper gives a dry heat over a light woody base, and it is usually placed at the opening of a scent to clear the way for the layers that follow. Both notes are strong, so they belong to the group that must be used sparingly.
Star anise
Star anise is the fruit of the star anise tree, associated in Vietnam with Lang Son and the northern border provinces. In the kitchen it goes into the pho pot and many braised dishes. In fragrance it gives a sweet, cool, slightly medicinal feeling, close to the group of scents people call sweet herbal.
The point to watch is the line between sweet coolness and a medicinal smell. Cross it slightly and the whole formula tips towards a group of scents that recall a pharmacy, and for many people that is not the feeling they want in a bedroom.
Pepper
Pepper is the fruit of the pepper vine, and Vietnam is one of the world's major pepper producers. In fragrance, the heat of pepper is not the heat of chilli; it is a dry heat with an edge to it, carrying a woody note and a little green.
The most familiar role of pepper is the opening. A pure woody scent tends to open slowly; add a small amount of pepper and the opening has something to do, so the person smelling it recognises the scent from the first breath. At ZUNGZA this is how we use black pepper in some formulas, and the level is always very small compared with the woody part. This is our way of working, not a standard formula.
The limits that need saying plainly
We are not stating health uses of star anise and pepper here. Both are familiar kitchen spices, but concentrated essential oil is an entirely different matter from seasoning, and you should not apply it to skin or take it internally following instructions found online. If this part interests you, ask someone qualified.
A few questions you often send us
Are hoi and dai hoi the same thing
In everyday Vietnamese usage, hoi and dai hoi are generally used for the same star-shaped fruit used in cooking. There are other species in the same genus that are not used as food, so with material of unclear origin, do not use it for eating or drinking.
Does a pepper note make a candle harsh
If it is overdone, yes, and the feeling is usually described as a sting in the nose during the first ten minutes. The way to handle it is to reduce the amount and increase the woody or resinous part to cushion the heat.
Can I add star anise and pepper to a candle at home
We do not recommend putting raw material into burning wax. Plant material inside a candle is fuel, and that is a risk not worth taking for a little extra scent.